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Winter Comforts

Text by Zachary Feldman
A myriad of chefs reveal their favorite cold weather staples.

It’s no secret winter is prime time for hearty dishes served with love‭. ‬When a chill hits the air‭, ‬and the sun starts to disappear‭ ‬earlier and earlier‭, ‬chefs from all over like to nourish themselves and family with recipes that satiate both the appetite and heart—hearty soups and stews to flaky‭, ‬golden-topped pot pies and luxurious meat braises‭. ‬We wrangled some of the world’s most esteemed chefs to uncover which flavors they find most satisfying when the outside temperatures start to drop‭.‬

Connor Holdren | Prospect, Hotel Jerome, Auberge Resorts Collection

Braised Short Ribs

“A favorite of mine would have to be braised short ribs! During the winter it really hits home. I love braising them in a classic veal stock with red wine but, for a twist, I make a ‘French onion soup’ braising liquid. It takes a ton of caramelized onions, and when it’s done its uses are endless. A crusty piece of sourdough with shredded short ribs and caramelized onions can’t be beat!”

Photo by Trevor Trevino

Prospect

Douglas Keane | Cyrus Restaurant (Sonoma County)

Chicken Pot Pie

“Chicken pot pie was something my mom used to take me out for as a special treat when I was a kid‭. ‬I love chicken pot pie because‭, ‬when done well‭, ‬it’s incredibly satisfying‭. ‬There’s something about it that resonates with people‭; ‬it taps into a sense of nostalgia‭, ‬a common thread many of us grew up with‭.‬”

Photo by Cynthia Glassell

Michael Solomonov | CookNSolo Restaurants

Mushroom Freekeh Soup

“It’s the perfect soup for a chilly fall or winter night‭. ‬It’s great to serve to family and friends because you can prep it in advance‭. ‬It’s vegan‭, ‬and it’s easy to throw any leftovers in the freezer to then microwave on a weeknight‭.‬”

Photo by Steve Legato
Photo by Michael Persico

Michael Solomonov’s Mushroom Freekah Soup Recipe

 

Ingredients

3 cups boiling water

1/2 cup dried mushrooms, such as shiitakes or porcini

1/3 cup soy sauce

1/4 cup olive oil

1 pound cremini mushrooms, quartered, stems trimmed and chopped

2 celery ribs, diced

2 small carrots, diced

1 medium onion, diced

4 garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon salt

2 tablespoons tomato paste

1 cup freekah

1 cup finely chopped chives

1 cup finely chopped parsley leaves

Lemon wedges, for serving

 

Instructions

  • In a medium bowl, pour the boiling water over the dried mushrooms and soy sauce. Cover and soak until the mushrooms are plump and rehydrated, about 20 minutes.
  • In a large heavy-bottomed pot set over high heat, warm the olive oil. Then add the quartered cremini mushroom tops and cook until nice and brown.
  • To the soup pot, add the celery, carrots, onion, garlic, and mushroom stems, stirring until evenly coated. Reduce the heat to medium-low and cook until the vegetables are softened, about 10 minutes. You’ll develop some nice brown bits on the bottom of the pot.
  • Stir the salt and tomato paste into the browning vegetables; cook for a minute.
  • Strain out the rehydrated dried mushrooms and finely chop, reserving the soaking liquid. Add both the liquid and the chopped mushrooms to the pot along with 3 cups of water.
  • Turn up the heat, cover, and bring to a boil. Then stir the freekah into the soup.
  • Cover and reduce the heat to medium-low and cook, stirring occasionally, until the freekah is tender, about 20 minutes.
  • Blend briefly with an immersion blender (10 to 15 seconds) to add body to the soup.
  • Stir in the chives and parsley. Serve hot, with lemon wedges.
“Celery Root, Parsnip and Rutabaga Gratin: These earthy‭, ‬wintry root vegetables are hardy‭, ‬nutritious and scrumptious‭. ‬They take some time to coax out their best‭, ‬but once‭ ‬they have been cooked and they bond‭, ‬it is glorious‭. ‬Once mixed with cream‭, ‬butter and a strong mountain cheese‭, ‬they are then‭ ‬baked for a good hour or so‭. ‬The result is special and something I love to make for family in the colder months‭.‬”
–Jonathan Waxman, chef/owner of Barbuto (New York City)

Guillermo Tellez | Yuta, The Lodge at Blue Sky, Auberge Resorts Collection

Pot Pie

“Pot pie is very comforting this time of year‭. ‬The best part is you can make it with roasted turkey and any other leftovers from‭ ‬Thanksgiving‭, ‬or even with chicken or lobster‭. ‬What makes it special is that it evokes memories from family gatherings sitting around the fire and seeing the smiles of loved ones and everyone telling funny stories‭.‬”

Photo by Gabriella Santos Photograph

Yuta

Marc Vetri | Vetri (Philadelphia)

Braised Rabbit

“Now that the weather is getting cooler we can start braising‭. ‬One of my all-time favorite cold-weather dishes to make is braised‭ ‬rabbit with pancetta and polenta‭. ‬I think people are intimidated by cooking rabbit‭, ‬but it’s surprisingly simple‭. ‬It’s hard to mess up a braise so I always encourage people to go outside their comfort zones‭. ‬It’s a perfect winter dish‭.‬”

Photo by Mike Thurk

Andrew Zimmern | Chef and TV personality

Gumbo, Fried Chicken, Meatloaf, Mac and Cheese, and Mulled Red Wine

“Comfort foods are the ones that remind us of home‭, ‬that give us a flood of happy memories‭, ‬typically from simpler‭, ‬easier times‭.‬‭ ‬All winter long I focus on the couple of dozen recipes that never fail to make me feel better—meals in a bowl‭, ‬rustic tarts‭, ‬rich and decadent creamy pastas‭. ‬Gumbo‭, ‬fried chicken‭, ‬meatloaf‭, ‬mac and cheese and mulled red wine are a few of mine‭.‬”

Photo by Madeleine Hill
Photo by Madeleine Hill

Andrew Zimmern’s Andouille, Crab, Crayfish & Oyster Gumbo Recipe

 

Ingredients

1 jumbo lump blue crab meat

1 crayfish tail meat

1  andouille sausage, sliced thin

3 cups shucked oysters and reserved juices

9 tablespoons flour

8 tablespoons canola oil

1 1/2 cups each diced celery, onion, red bell pepper

2 cups chopped  fresh okra

18 ounces tomato puree

2 tablespoons Worcestershire sauce

3 tablespoons gumbo file powder (ground sassafras)

1 habanero, split

7 cups chicken stock

3 cups fish stock or clam juice

1 tablespoons dried thyme

3 cloves minced garlic

1 bay leaf

 

Instructions

  • Place the flour and oil in a large well-insulated soup pot over medium-low heat.
  • Stir every 45 seconds as the roux turns blond, then brown then dark brown. This will take 15-20 minutes.
  • When very dark brown and aromatic, add the vegetables, andouille sausage, herbs, spices and garlic.
  • Saute until onions are glassy, add the tomato puree and stir.
  • Add the stock and Worcestershire. Bring mixture to a boil, reduce heat to maintain a simmer, and simmer for 1 hour.
  • Add the seafood and continue cooking for 10 minutes.
  • Season with salt and pepper and serve.
“Chicken and Dumplings and Kalbi Tang: I’m a sucker for classic chicken and dumplings or a big batch of kalbi tang (extra daikon radish!). My two big pot meals when it’s cold out. The key to the best Kalbi Tang is time and patience, to get a clear but flavorful broth that feels like a Korean grandma’s cure all. You can eat it alone as is, or you can garnish and dress it up to your liking for an over the top complete meal.”
–Lee Anne Wong, Koko Head Chef (Hawaii)

Lee Anne Wong’s Kalbi Tang

 

Ingredients

3 lbs bone in flanken cut beef short ribs cut into 2-3 inch chunks

1 medium yellow onion, peeled whole, keep root intact, cut in half vertically

2 lbs daikon radish, peeled, keep whole

Kosher salt or sea salt

Sliced green onions for garnish/finishing

Optional: Julienned ginger root, sweet potato noodles or konyaku noodles, cilantro leaves, kimchi, scrambled egg/egg drop, rice, crushed minced garlic, large flake sea salt

 

Instructions

  • Begin by rinsing the short ribs under cold water to remove any excess blood and bone fragments.
  • In a large 8-12qt pot. Cover short ribs with cold water. Bring the water to a simmer over high heat. Impurities and soup scum will rise to the surface as the water begins to simmer. Bring the pot to a low boil and continue to cook for 10 minutes.
  • Drain the short ribs and onion into a colander, discarding the cooking liquid. Rinse the beef pieces under cold water, removing any additional impurities. Clean the  pot thoroughly and return the beef pieces and onion to the pot. Cover again with cold water (16 cups), and add the onion halves. Bring the pot to a medium boil, skimming fat off as the short ribs simmer and tenderize. Reduce heat and cook for 2 hours at a low simmer.
  • Add the whole peeled daikon and cook for 40-50 minutes more until the meat is falling off the bones and tender. Remove the meat from the stock, set aside in a bowl. Remove daikon from the stock and slice into 1/2″ thick half moons. Strain the broth through a fine mesh sieve into a new pot. You can choose to keep or discard the cooked onions, I often keep them, and give them a rough chop before adding back to the soup. Season the broth to taste with salt and white or black pepper.
  • Add the meat and daikon back to the broth, reheat. Serve with any number of accompaniments: sliced scallion, noodles, cilantro, kimchi, raw minced garlic, etc. Serve immediately.

Anthony Stagnaro | Bear, Stanly Ranch, Auberge Resorts Collection

Chicken Tinola

“My favorite comfort food by far is chicken tinola‭, ‬which is a Filipino soup dish‭. ‬It involves cooking chicken pieces in ginger broth‭. ‬The warmth and lightness of the broth is so comforting in the colder months‭. ‬The simplicity of chicken tinola gives each ingredient the chance to shine‭.‬”

Bear

Amanda Shulman | Her Place Supper Club and Co-founder of Libbie Loup Hospitality

Bean Soup

“I’m a huge soup fan—I want something with big white beans‭, ‬a bacon-perfumed broth‭, ‬and enough wilted greens for it to be considered a hot‭, ‬wet salad‭. ‬I always have a pot of this bubbling on Sundays to eat throughout the week while at home‭. ‬It gets a boost from a generous amount of grated Parmigiano and black pepper and a glug of good finishing oil for a fruity finish‭. ‬Lastly‭, ‬I’ll throw some olive oil toasted croutons in there for good measure‭! ‬This is the definition of cold-weather comfort for me‭!‬”

Photo by Michael Branscom

Nok Suntaranon | Kalaya (Philadelphia)

Beef Massaman Curry

“My all-time favorite cold-weather comfort dish is beef Massaman curry‭. ‬The version I make has potatoes‭, ‬peanuts‭, ‬and coconut milk‭, ‬and it gets served with jasmine rice‭. ‬This is one of my favorite dishes in the world‭, ‬and it is so comforting to me because it brings me closer to my childhood with my mother‭, ‬Kalaya‭. ‬It is a perfect dish for the winter‭, ‬very comforting and very filling‭, ‬and a dish that means so much to me personally‭.‬”

Photo by Mike Prince

Zach Ludwig | Timber Room, Madeline Hotel & Residences, Auberge Resorts Collection

Chicken and Dumplings

“I have always been a big fan of chicken and dumplings‭. ‬There is something so magical about a perfectly roasted chicken shredded‭ ‬and bathed in a sauce supreme‭. ‬The sauce is made with loads of root vegetables and mushrooms‭, ‬doused with sweet Pedro Ximenez‭ (‬white Spanish grape wine‭), ‬chicken stock‭, ‬finished with sour cream and lots of herbs‭. ‬Everytime I make chicken and dumplings I’m reminded of cold Wisconsin winters and time spent playing in the snow‭.‬”

Timber Room