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Aegean Gem

By Jill Newman | Photography by Yannis Bournias
Greek fine jewelry designer Nikos Koulis finds inspiration in Santorini’s majestic beauty, unbridled vitality, and revered history.

Santorini has a special energy unlike the other Cycladic Islands‭,‬”‭ ‬says Nikos Koulis while sitting at an outdoor‭ ‬kafenio‭ ‬on a sunny spring day‭. ‬“It’s because it was created when an ancient volcano erupted‭, ‬leaving a magnificent caldera‭, ‬black‭- ‬and red-sand beaches‭, ‬and lava rocks‭.‬”

The celebrated Greek jeweler has a sensitivity to energy‭, ‬the kind that likewise emanates from his color-drenched rubies‭, ‬emeralds‭, ‬and sapphires‭, ‬and uniquely cut diamonds‭. ‬Mystical life forces are rooted in his Greek heritage—and one of the reasons he carries Tahitian pearl worry beads in his pocket‭. ‬

Santorini is one of Greek designer Nikos Koulis’s favorite getaways.

Koulis‭, ‬whose flagship store is in Athens’s luxury shopping district‭, ‬travels more than half the year‭, ‬visiting high-profile clients around the world‭. ‬But as soon as he steps off the plane in the Cyclades‭, ‬he says‭, ‬he’s at peace‭. ‬It’s a feeling he’s had since early childhood‭, ‬when his family traveled extensively throughout the Greek Isles‭. ‬Santorini has remained a favorite‭ ‬place ever since for its dreamy sunsets‭, ‬awe-inspiring caldera‭, ‬and mythological significance‭.

According to legend‭, ‬Poseidon’s son Euphemus created the island after dreaming he made love to a nymph‭; ‬others say Santorini is the last remaining link to the‭ ‬lost city of Atlantis‭. ‬That mythology is still alive in the island’s enchanting aura‭, ‬says Koulis‭, ‬who often goes to the rooftop of one of the island’s churches to gaze down over the sparkling Aegean Sea‭. ‬On every trip‭, ‬he makes time to visit Mati Gallery‭, ‬“a hidden gem showcasing inspiring artists and unique creations‭,‬”‭ ‬and he is a regular at Ammoudi‭, ‬where he takes ouzo with his dinner‭.‬

Nikos Koulis at Grace Hotel

Santorini’s breathtaking cliffs and panoramas inspire Koulis.

Grace Hotel, Auberge Resorts Collection is a tranquil retreat with majestic ocean views and a pool overlooking the sea.

Koulis feels a connection to the island’s volcanic energy, especially when working with gemstones like the rare emerald.

Santorini’s nature—in particular‭, ‬its dancing winds—is a liberating metaphor for Koulis‭. ‬“It is freedom to express new ideas‭, ‬freedom to explore‭,‬”‭ ‬he says‭. ‬At Grace Hotel‭, ‬Auberge Resorts Collection, ‬that freedom‭, ‬and the creativity it inspires‭, ‬is especially strong‭; ‬it is‭ ‬woven into its cliff-top setting in the quiet village of Imerovigli‭, ‬in its intimate whitewashed dwellings and layered terraces‭,‬‭ ‬and in its dramatic views of the magnificent caldera‭.‬

Koulis has that wind to thank for his innovative new Wish collection‭, ‬which was inspired by the ethereal beauty of a dandelion‭. ‬“I was captivated by the flower’s fragile texture‭,‬”‭ ‬he says‭. ‬“You can’t catch the fuzzy white balls‭; ‬they disappear in the wind‭.‬”

As a second-generation jeweler‭, ‬Koulis could have easily created designs inspired by classic Greek themes‭, ‬but he took another path‭, ‬juxtaposing light and dark and smooth and sharp in his sculptural pieces featuring rare gemstones‭. ‬That distinctive aesthetic extends to his lifestyle too‭, ‬from his monochromatic uniform composed of pieces from The Row and Loro Piana‭, ‬to his stylish Athens apartment mixing Art Deco–era furnishings‭, ‬contemporary art‭, ‬and vintage light fixtures‭. ‬Like his jewelry‭, ‬everything in his life is a combination of unlikely elements that coalesce to create a timeless aesthetic‭.‬

The panoramic views from Grace Hotel.

It all leads back to the designer’s mythical, magical muse of Santorini‭. ‬The island’s simple, intangible, natural elements forever imbue his everyday life, ‬no matter where in the world he may find himself. ‬And every return is like an instant jolt of inspiration‭. ‬“The light is different, the air is different,‬” he says. ‬“The energy makes me happy‭.‬”

Nikos Koulis walking down street

A native of Athens, Koulis opened his stylish flagship store last fall in the city’s luxury shopping district. The store’s façade, designed by Bureau de Change, is made of marble and textured aluminum to reflect the city’s past and future.

Koulis is known for modern, minimalist fine jewelry, like this necklace and black aluminum, gold, and diamond cuff from his Wish collection.